Appendix II

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Appendix I

It would be impossible for me to include contact information for all of the national and regional associations. I have attempted to include those associations which represent most of the participants of RSG. If you do not see your national/regional association listed here please ask your club, course or practice facility for contact information.

1. Associations

USGA
Joining the USGA, a non-profit organization, costs $25 per year (may be tax deductible, lifetime memberships are available). You will receive a current rule book, nine issues of Golf Journal, with special issues for the US and Senior Open, as well as their catalog of golf goodies and a bag tag. The money helps support the USGA, which sponsors various amateur tournaments, administers the Rules of Golf, conducts equipment tests, turf research and much more. The USGA"s website is http://www.usga.org/ . I urge all United States based participants in RSG to consider becoming a member of the USGA. Please note that membership in a club or a regional association does not include membership in the USGA.

R & A
The Royal and Ancient Golf Club of St. Andrews has been the governing authority concerning the Rules of Golf since 1897 in every country of the world except Canada and the United States.  Prior to 1951 the USGA and the R&A had some minor differences in their respective versions of the Rules of Golf. In 1951 those differences were eliminated and the USGA and R&A agreed to issue a common set of rules. Because of this agreement, the Rules of Golf are the same everywhere in the world. The R&A also conducts the Open Championship, AKA the British Open. The R&A website is at http://www.randa.org/ .

Australian Golf Union
The AGU was established in 1898 and oversees the course rating system, player handicapping, selection of Australian golfers for international amateur competitions, including the Eisenhower Trophy. The AGU also conducts the various Australian National Championships tournaments such as the Australian Open, the Australian Amateur and the Australian Senior Amateur. The AGU website is at  http://www.agu.org.au/ .

PGA of America
The Professional Golfers Association of America (PGA) trains and certifies professional golf instructors. The PGA also conducts the PGA Championship tournament, one of the 4 major tournaments of men's professional golf and the Ryder Cup, the premier international professional men's team event. The PGA"s website is http://www.pga.com/ .

PGA Tour
The PGA Tour is an association of touring professional golf players. These are the guys you see on television every week. The PGA Tour also runs the Senior PGA Tour and the Buy.Com Tour. The PGA Tour is not a division of the PGA of America, it is a separate and independent entity. The PGA Tour runs or sanctions all PGA Tour events. If you want to become a touring pro, this is the organization you need to join. The PGA Tour's website is http://www.pgatour.com/ .

LPGA
The Ladies Professional Golf Association is the governing body for the vast majority of female professional golfers, whether they work in a pro shop or play on the LPGA Tour. Like the PGA of America, the LPGA trains and certifies LPGA teaching professionals and, like the PGA Tour, the LPGA also runs the LPGA Tour.  The LPGA"s website is at http://www.lpga.com/index.html . Please note that some female golf professionals are members of the PGA, not the LPGA.

Regional Associations
Contact your local pro shop or golf course for information on contacting your state or regional association.

Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM's)

Shaft Manufacturers

3. Miscellaneous Contacts

XIII. Definitions

Fairway in Regulation
You have hit a Fairway in Regulation when your ball comes to rest off the tee (except par 3's) in the fairway cut of grass for the hole you are playing.

Green in Regulation
Hitting a green in regulation means that your ball will be on the putting surface in 1 shot on a par 3, 2 shots (or less) on a par 4 and 3 shots (or less) on a par 5. Just subtracting 2 putts from the par gives you the "Regulation" number of strokes to reach the green. The fringe or apron is not a part of the putting surface.

Bogie/Birdie/Eagle/Albatross
A bogie is a score of 1 stoke over par for a hole. A double bogie is 2 strokes over par for the hole and so on.

A birdie is 1 stroke under par for the hole, an eagle is 2 strokes under par for the hole and an albatross is 3 strokes under par. An albatross is often misleadingly called a double eagle.

Sweetspot
Sweetspot is the term used to describe a theoretical point on the clubface. In theory, a shot struck perfectly on the sweetspot would not cause any twisting of the clubhead. In reality, the sweetspot is inside the clubhead and so is impossible to actually strike. Manufacturers of oversized and cavity back clubs imply and sometimes actually state that the sweetspot on their clubs is larger than on standard sized or blade clubs. This is false and misleading. The sweetspot is a theoretical point and has no physical size, regardless of the size or design of the clubhead.

In practical terms, the sweetspot is a small area on the clubface that will produce the most consistent shot pattern and longest distance. As ball/club contact moves farther away from this small area the shot pattern becomes more inconsistent and distance decreases.

Studies and player feedback have indicated that there is an increase in the forgiveness of oversized and cavity back club heads. What this means is that there is a larger area around the sweetspot where if a ball is struck properly, an acceptable shot will still result.

 
Pull
The opposite of push: A ball whose flight path is straight that ends up left of the target. The incidence angle of the clubface is x degrees to the left of the target, and where the PATH of the clubface is also x degrees to the left of the target (outside to inside path).

Fade
A straight shot with slight sidespin, such that there is slight but noticeable left to right travel by the ball at the end of its flight. The key words are slight sidespin. Since the forward energy force must be much greater than that of the sidespin, such that as the ball slows down at the end of its flight, using up the forward direction energy, the sidespin takes over and gives the ball its left to right 'fading action'. The clubface is generally open a few degrees at impact, but the club path is straight along the intended path (directly at the target). A fade typically has a higher trajectory than a draw and the ball tends to roll less after hitting the ground.

Draw
The opposite of a fade. A straight shot with a minimum of sidespin, such that there is slight but noticeable right to left travel by the golf ball at the end of its flight. Again, the key phrase is slight sidespin. Since the forward energy force must be much greater than that of the sidespin, such that as the ball slows down at the end of its flight, using up the forward direction energy, the sidespin takes over and gives the ball its right to left 'drawing action'. The clubface is generally closed a few degrees at impact, but the club path is straight along the intended path (directly at the target). A draw typically has a lower trajectory than a fade and the ball tends to roll more after hitting the ground.

Slice
The opposite of a hook. A shot that curves uncontrollably from left to right due to severe sidespin imparted on the ball at contact. The clubface is generally open at contact and the club path is typically outside in relative to the intended path or target line.

Hook
The opposite of a slice. A shot that curves uncontrollably from right to left, due to the severe sidespin imparted at contact. The clubface is generally closed to the target at impact and the club path is typically inside out relative to the intended path of target line.

Dormie
Dormie is a matchplay term used to describe a situation where a player or team cannot lose the match in regulation. This occurs when one player or team is leading a match by the same number of holes as remain to play. For example, a player or team leads by 3 holes with 3 holes to play. The best the opposing player or team can hope for is to win all the remaining holes and tie the match. If the opposing player or team loses or halves any of the remaining holes then match is immediately over.

XI. Instructional Information

Note: All directions in this section are referenced for right-handed players. Us lefties will have to reverse them.

For the most part, a hook or a slice is caused by the clubface being opened or closed upon contact. Most people also tend to agree that an inside-to-out swing plane causes a hook, and an outside-to-in swing plane causes a slice.

2. How do I cure a hook/slice?

The list of faults and problems that can cause you to have an incorrect club face angle or club path that lead to hooks and slices is almost endless. Because it's very difficult to tell which particular fault(s) causes your hook or slice, it's best to see your local PGA or LPGA teaching professional for an assessment and lesson.

For those of you that just can't or won't see a professional, here are a few swing faults that can promote a hook or a slice:

3. What causes thin shots?

A thin shot is one where the leading edge of the clubface hits too high on the ball. This is also called a "bladed shot". It results in a low, flat shot trajectory and the ball commonly rolls a long distance. Many faults can cause a thin shot. Here are some of the most common:

4. What causes fat shots?

A fat shot is one where the leading edge of the clubface strikes the ground before contacting the ball. This results in a large, deep divot hole and a high, short shot, usually straight with minimal roll. Again, many swing flaws can cause fat shots. Here are some of the most common:

5. How do I cure thin/fat shots?

As with hooks and slices, there are many different faults and swing flaws that can cause thin and fat shots. It is strongly recommended that you see your local PGA or LPGA teaching professional to assist you with this problem. These problems are sufficiently complex that I will not attempt to provide any solutions here.

X. Games and Matches

1. Stroke Play (also called Medal Play)

In stroke play you add up your score for each hole and the total is your gross score. If you are playing with handicaps then you subtract your handicap from your gross score to obtain your net score. The winner is the player with the lowest gross or net score.

Low gross -- no adjustment for handicap, low score wins
Low net -- subtract your handicap, low score wins

2. Match Play

Two golfers play head to head and the winner is the player who wins the most holes. A hole is won when one player holes out in fewer strokes than his opponent. The total number of strokes for the round does not matter. It is possible to win a match play competition with a total stroke score higher than your opponent.

In handicapped match play each player determines the number of handicap strokes he is entitled to. The difference between the players" handicaps is how many strokes the player with the higher handicap is entitled to. These strokes are awarded on the holes with the more difficult hole handicaps. For example, Player X is entitled to 5 strokes and Player Y is entitled to 8 stokes. Player Y receives the difference of 3 strokes, which will be applied on the 1, 2 and 3 handicap holes of the course.

3. Stableford

Points are allocated based on the net score of each hole. Handicaps are allocated based on the index of each hole. You deduct the allocated handicap per hole from the score on the hole and the points are allocated against the equivalent net score for the hole. The exact points that are allocated may vary. This scoring system is used by the PGA Tour at the Sprint International.

4. Best-Ball

This refers to a team event which may comprise 2, 3 or 4 players. Each player will have his/her stroke allowance and the lowest net score would be recorded at each hole. The total for the complete round would be the team's best-ball score. When a team consists of 2 players the game is known as "Better Ball".

5. Scramble

Normally a team of 4. Each player tees off at each hole and then the team selects the ball that is in the best position and ALL play from that spot. This repeats for all shots until the hole is finished. Scores from scrambles should NOT be posted for handicap purposes.

6. Foursome/Alternate Shot

A foursome consists of 2 teams of 2 players. Each team plays one ball, with each player on that team alternating shots. One player will tee off at all the odd numbered holes and the other at the even numbered holes, no matter who was the last player to play on the previous hole. For example, Player A tees off, Player B hits the 2nd shot, Player A putts and misses, Player B putts and holes out. Player B then tees off at the next hole. Scores from foursomes should NOT be posted for handicap purposes.

7. Par

Similar to stableford as far as the allocated shots are concerned but you either win, halve or lose the hole (+ 0 -). It"s a little tougher, as anything worse than a net par is a loss. At the end you add up your wins against your losses.

8. Chapman

Teams consist of 2 players. Each player hits a tee shot. They then each play a second shot using their partner's ball. At this point, they select the best ball and the player who did not hit it plays, alternating shots until the ball is holed (only the first two shots are hit by both players).  Scores from Chapman rounds should NOT be posted for handicap purposes.

9. Pinehurst

Teams consist of 2 players. Pinehurst is similar to the Chapman format, except that each player hits a drive, and the best drive is then chosen and players alternate in from there. Unlike the Chapman, players do not BOTH hit second shots from their partners" drives. Do not post scores from Pinehurst matches for handicap purposes.

IX. Course Rating

This is a brief explanation of course rating, slope and hole handicapping. This information is applicable only to courses rated according to USGA guidelines. For additional information and definitions see the USGA Handicap System Manual at  http://www.usga.org/handicap/ . For non-USGA course rating information, please contact the national association for the country where the course is located.

1. Yardage Rating

Yardage rating is an evaluation of the playing difficulty based solely on the yardage of the course. It is the score a scratch golfer playing to his ability is expected to make when playing a course of average difficulty. This rating method does not take into account forced carries, extensive hazards or other obstacles.

4. Hole Handicap

Each hole on an 18 hole golf course is assigned a Hole Handicap from 1 to 18. The Hole Handicap is used to determine on what holes handicap strokes are awarded in match play. This number is determined by the relative difficulty of a hole based on what a scratch golfer, playing to his ability, will routinely score and what a bogey golfer, also playing to his ability, will routinely score. A Hole Handicap of 1 indicates the greatest scoring difference between the scratch and bogey golfers and 18 the least. Typically the odd handicap numbered holes are the front nine and the even handicap holes are the back nine unless the back nine is notably more difficult than the front nine.

Keep in mind that the Hole Handicap does not indicate the overall difficulty of a hole. For example, a 425 yard par 4 might be the #1 handicap hole on the course while a 225 yard par 3 might be the #8 handicap hole. This is because a scratch golfer is capable of scoring par routinely on the 425 yard par 4, while a bogey golfer will rarely score better than a 5 and will often score worse. The 225 yard par 3 is a more difficult hole to play, but has a less difficult hole handicap because both the scratch and bogey golfer will routinely score 4 or higher on this hole.

VIII. Handicapping

1. The United States Golf Association (USGA)

A handicap is only an Official USGA Handicap Index if you get it from a golf club which follows the USGA Handicap System. The good news is that becoming a member of a golf club doesn't have to be difficult or expensive.

Many public courses host golf clubs with modest membership fees. Club membership often entitles you to a few extra benefits - such as reduced green fees, preferred starting times, as well as a chance to play in club sponsored tournaments and meet new people. At the other end of the scale are private clubs that can cost tens of thousands of dollars per year and may have long waiting lists.

Can't find a reasonably priced golf club to join or you don't want to feel tied to one golf course? Then consider joining or forming, a  golf club "without real estate". The USGA doesn't require a club to have a course, and the minimum membership is just 10 golfers who have a reasonable and regular opportunity to play golf with one another. Some clubs call themselves traveling clubs and host regular outings at different courses throughout the year. Check with the USGA for specific information on "Forming a Golf Club".

More information regarding the USGA Handicap System can be found at http://www.usga.org/handicap/ or you can contact the USGA directly.

I urge all United States based participants of RSG to consider becoming a member of the USGA.

4. Modified Peoria System

The next best alternative, according to USGA studies, is to use a hole score selection system, often called the "Peoria system." Under this system, a player learns his handicap after the round is completed. By this method, the committee secretly selects a par 3 hole, a par 5 hole and four par 4 holes from an 18 hole course. The par 4's should be representative in length and difficulty with two chosen from the front nine and two from the back nine. A modified Peoria handicap is calculated by adding the player's strokes over par on the six selected holes, and multiplying by 2.8. This will equal the player's allowance to be deducted from his gross score. The maximum hole score for allowance purposes is three over par on par 3's and 4's and four over par on par 5's.

5. Callaway System

The Callaway System is a so-called "one-round" system or "worst-holes" system that compresses the spread of gross scores when converted to net scores. It is not a reliable handicap system and produces a result such that the player with the lowest gross score almost always becomes the low net score winner. Most players with higher gross scores are given net scores within a few strokes of the winner so that most players can feel competitive.

By the Callaway System, a player's allowance is determined after each round by deducting from his gross score for 18 holes the scores of the worst individual holes during the first 16 holes. The table below shows the number of "worst hole" scores he may deduct and the adjustment to be made, based on his gross score.

Maximum Handicap - 50

ADJUSTMENT

-2      -1       0      +1      +2                 Deduct from or Add  to Handicap

 
NOTES:

1. No hole may be scored at more than twice its par.

2. Half strokes count as whole.

VII. Golf Balls

1. General

Golf ball design and construction has changed immensely in the last 10 years. Once you only had to decide between Balata (expensive, only for low handicappers) and Surlyn (for the rest of us). But today there are literally dozens of different types of covers and construction methods. Today there are 2 piece, 3 piece, multi-layer, wound, double cover and almost any other type of ball you can think of. But when the hype gets out of hand, remember that the USGA/R&A very strictly regulate ball velocity, so all golf balls will travel approximately the same distance, with distance type balls being perhaps a few yards longer than spin type balls.

2. Balata/Spin

A balata covered ball is the original spin ball. It is typically a three piece ball: a core (sometimes liquid filled) wound with rubber and covered with balata. Balata is a soft substance which susceptible  to cuts and nicks. This softness generally promotes a high ball spin rate. A higher spin rate allows better players to shape their shots, i.e. to deliberately draw or fade the shot. It also will assist in making the ball back-up or stop when it lands on the green. Today the balata is artificial and many other compounds are used to achieve the same effect, but with less susceptibility to cuts and nicks.

3. Surlyn/Distance

A distance ball is generally a two piece ball, typically consisting of a solid rubber core with a man-made cover that is less susceptible to cuts and nick than balata. The original cover material was called Surlyn and almost all distance balls still use a variation of surlyn as a cover material. Distance balls have a lower spin rate than spin type balls. This is beneficial to players looking for a longer, straighter ball flight. The drawback is that because the ball has a lower spin rate, it is more difficult to deliberately draw or fade a shot. However, for a significant majority of players this is not a serious consideration. A factor that is of significant consideration is that distance balls may feel harder than spin type balls when struck, particularly to low handicap players. Some of the hardest distance type balls are referred to as "rocks".

4. Other Materials

Thanks to the wonders of chemistry, there are now many other types of cover materials available for golf balls. These include artificial balata, elastopolymers, etc. Most of these covers are designed to combine the durability of surlyn with the spin characteristics of balata. They are also generally quite expensive, but typically last longer than balata balls. These balls may be two piece, three piece or multi-layer, depending on the playing characteristics the manufacturer is aiming for.

5. Compression

Compression of a golf ball is designed to match the feel of the ball to the golfer's preference. Typical compression ratings are between 80 and 100, with most players using a 90 compression ball as a compromise. Many above average golfers tend to agree that hitting a 100 compression ball feels like hitting a rock. Contrary to popular myth, studies indicate that a 100 compression ball is not significantly longer than 90 or 80 compression balls.

6. Notes

Determining the type of ball you should use, as well as the compression is purely preference. Some people find that a distance type ball is quite playable, while others feel they need the action a spin type ball gives. Generally, higher handicap players will benefit more from a distance or two piece ball due to its lower spin rate. Lower handicap players often prefer a spin type or three piece soft cover ball because of its higher spin rate.

7. Quick Comparison

Balata/Spin

• Softer cover
• Higher spin rate
• Easier to work
• Usually three piece ball
• Usually more expensive with a shorter life

Surlyn/Distance

• More durable cover
• Lower spin rate
• Slightly more distance
• Usually two piece ball
• Usually less expensive with a longer life

Other

• Soft, yet durable cover
• Usually better spin than typical surlyn ball
• Usually better durability than typical balata ball
• Higher initial cost than surlyn, but typically longer life than balata

VI. Grips

1. Rubber

Rubber grips are made by adding granulated cork, as well as other materials to liquid rubber. The cork serves to displace the rubber, and is the reason many grips are called composition grips. It also makes the overall weight of the grip lighter. The rubber/cork blend is checked to assure the proper viscosity, and is then molded in a high pressure molding machine. After molding, the grips are sanded and painted. Some of the features of rubber grips are easy installation, reminder ribs for hand placement, and they are less expensive. Rubber is the most common grip material used today.

2. Leather

Some senior players use leather, while most younger players use various rubber molded grips. The reason has very little to do with the quality or playability of the grip, but simply a difference in what each generation has been accustomed to. One of the features of leather grips (generally made of cowhide or calfskin) is that they have a nice soft, pliable, tacky feel. A few of the drawbacks are its difficulty to install, and its price. Leather is not very common today.

3. Cord/Half-Cord

Most of the more popular rubber models come in an optional cord grip, in which strands of fabric thread are embedded in the rubber grip. This makes for a better non-slip contact with hand or glove, especially when wet with rain or sweat. However, it does wear out gloves faster than non-cord grips.

Many of the cord models also come as half-cord, in which the top of the grip (where your thumbs are) is smooth rubber and the bottom (where your fingers wrap around the grip) is corded.

4. Oversized/Undersized

Grips come in a standard size, but can be padded to a larger diameter with tape on the shaft under the grip. Each layer of masking tape adds approximately 1/64th of an inch to the diameter of the grip. This may not seem like a lot, but it makes a significant difference in how the grip feels and can impact your swing. It is also possible to get larger and smaller diameter grips.

5. Quick Comparison

Rubber Grips

• Slip-on design
• Easy to install
• Less expensive
• Rough when corded

Leather Grips

• Usually wrapped spiral design
• Harder to install
• More expensive
• Natural soft, tacky feel

Oversized

• For larger hands
• Minimize arthritis pain
• Decreases hand action, promoting a slice

Undersized

• For smaller hands (many women)
• Increases hand action, promoting a hook

6. Notes

The type of grips a person uses will be based on feel. Some people like the natural soft feel of the leather grips, while others refuse to use anything but corded composite grips. Try going to a local golf shop and seeing which grips feel right.

V. Shafts

It is generally agreed that the shaft is the single most important part of the golf club. Shaft selection involves many variables including material, length, torque, kickpoint (bendpoint) and most importantly, flex. Having properly fitted shafts in your clubs is probably the best thing you can do with regard to equipment for improving your game.

1. Steel

Steel shafts are generally made from carbon steel or stainless steel. For the most part, the manufacturing processes between the two are similar. A steel strip is rolled into a tube and is drawn over a mandrel until the diameter and wall thickness are reduced to their exact specifications. At this point the step pattern is formed on the shaft. Then the walls are made thinner at the grip and thicker at the tip to give the shaft its flex characteristics. Then it is hardened, tempered, straightened and stress relieved. The final step is to polish and chrome plate the shaft. One of the best features of the steel shaft is the ability to have the same feel throughout the entire set. This means that the shaft stiffness of the 3 iron will feel the same as the 9 iron, if they are properly assembled. Other features are its durability and price. Steel is the preferred material for the majority of the players on the US and European PGA Tours.

2. Graphite

Graphite shafts are made from a graphite tape or sheets. The material, which has an epoxy binder, is wrapped around a steel mandrel. The wrapped shaft is then temperature cured and the mandrel removed. The raw shaft is then sanded and cut to proper length, at which point it receives a clear or colored paint coating. Its most notable feature is its lightweight. It also helps dampen the vibration caused by clubhead impact with the ground. A few of the drawbacks are the feel of the shaft (some people complain that a stiff graphite shaft does not feel like a stiff steel shaft); the stiffness may not be consistent throughout a set, and its price tag. A newer manufacturing process called "filament winding" can produce a set with greater consistency, but at a higher price. Graphite has gained significant acceptance on the US LPGA Tour and the US Senior PGA Tour.

3. Titanium/Aluminum

I have very little information regarding the titanium and aluminum shafts and their respective manufacturing processes. There are not many titanium or aluminum shafts on the market and to my knowledge, none are in use on any professional tour.

4. Flex

The stiffness, flex, or deflection of a shaft defines the bending characteristics of the tube, when a load is applied to the shaft. The most common shaft flexes are designated as X (extra-stiff), S (stiff), R (regular), A (man's flexible), or L (ladies'). Typically, a faster swing speed will benefit from increased accuracy with a stiffer shaft. A slower swing speed will benefit from increased distance with a more flexible shaft. Flex is probably the single most important factor in the feel of a shaft.

5. Frequency/Slope

Some manufacturers rate the stiffness of their shafts according to the Brunswick Slope. This measurement assigns a stiffness rating to a shaft according its frequency or how fast it vibrates and is also dependent on club length. This frequency is expressed in "cycles per minute" or CPM. Below is a comparison of CPM, slope and standard flex for a 38 inch club (typical men's 5 iron).

6. Torque

Generally torque is a rating applied to a graphite shaft. It specifies the twisting characteristics of the shaft. The normal torque rating of a steel shaft for woods is about 2.5 degrees and 1.7 degrees for the irons. The general range of torque ratings found on graphite shafts are from 3.5 to 5.5 degrees, although it is possible to get shafts with lower or higher ratings. The higher the torque rating, the more the shaft twists for a given twisting force. The torque rating also seems to be tied to the stiffness of a shaft, the lower the torque rating, the stiffer the shaft. There is no accepted industry standard for measuring torque.

7. Kickpoint

The kickpoint (a.k.a. bendpoint or flexpoint) defines where the shaft will bend. Kickpoint affects the trajectory of the shot, the higher the kickpoint, the lower the trajectory. (A high kickpoint is closer to the grip end of the shaft; a low kickpoint is closer to the head end of the shaft.) The effect in trajectory is small but measurable. For someone that generally hits the ball with a high shot trajectory, a high kickpoint is desirable in a shaft. For someone with a low shot trajectory, a low kickpoint helps get the ball airborne and on a higher flight path. The kickpoint also affects the feel of the shaft. A golfer who can feel the difference finds the high bend point makes the shaft feel like "one piece", while with the low bend point, the shaft feels as though the tip whips the clubhead through the ball. There is no accepted industry standard for measuring kickpoint.

8. Spines

A shaft is considered to have a spine when its flex and torque characteristics vary with its orientation. Since all shafts, regardless of material or manufacturing process, have some variation, all shafts are considered to have spines. Until very recently, the USGA rules for shafts specifically required shafts to have the same characteristics, regardless of orientation. However, variations are an inevitable outcome of the manufacturing processes and the USGA has finally acknowledged this fact. New guidelines from the USGA allow clubmakers to align shafts so that they are consistent from one club to the next within a set.

There have been some studies that indicate improved shot consistency when shafts are aligned throughout a set. Some professional players have been aligning their shafts for many years and it is now becoming more common in the mass market. For an additional fee, some shaft vendors and manufacturers will now sell shafts with the spines marked. There are also devices available to custom clubmakers which will allow them to determine spine orientation.

9.  Notes

Never base your shaft selection on specifications, always try to demo the shafts you are considering. This is because there are no industry standards for measuring flex, kickpoint or torque. One company's low torque extra stiff shaft may be another company's mid torque regular flex shaft. Choosing the material, flex, and kickpoint of a shaft will depend entirely on what feels right when you swing the club. Someone with a high swing speed may choose a steel shaft with a flex rating of X and a low kickpoint, while someone with the same swing speed may choose a graphite shaft with a flex rating of R and a high kickpoint. The general consensus is see your local professional and ask what he/she recommends. Make your decision from there.

IV. Woods/Metals

Historically the "wood" was made of wood (hence the name), but they now come in a variety materials from wood to stainless steel to titanium to graphite and several other materials. They are also generally bigger, in terms of size and volume, than other clubs. Woods are typically long distance clubs meant to be used when distance is more important than accuracy. A driver is a 1 wood and typically has somewhere between 6 and 12 degrees of loft (0 degrees of loft would be perpendicular to the ground). The hosel of a wood is also typically somewhat smaller than the hosel of an iron, .335" instead of .370".

1. Wood "woods"

There are two types of wood used, persimmon and maple. Solid heads are usually persimmon. Laminated (plywood) heads are usually maple. Persimmon heads are made by using a sophisticated turning machine, which mills the material into the desired shape. The process is much like making a duplicate key for a lock. The second, and most commonly used wood, is laminated maple. Generally, 1/16 inch veneers of maple are laminated together into a block, much like plywood. Then the veneers are heated and pressurized, and finally turned like the persimmon heads.

While some golfers indicate that persimmon heads have a more solid feel at impact, studies do not support this. Other golfers prefer the laminated maple, reasoning that they last longer.

2. Metal "woods"

Metal woods have become the standard over the last 10 years. There are only a few professional players using persimmon or maple fairway woods and all of the pros use metal drivers now. Metal woods have a number of advantages over wood. Metal woods generally last longer and are less expensive than persimmon or maple woods. Metal woods can be perimeter weighted. Metal woods can be cast from an almost endless list of alloys, depending on the manufacturer's design. Stainless steel and titanium are the most common choices for metal woods.

3. Stainless Steel

Stainless steel heads of many different alloys are available, the most common being 17-4 and 15-5. Stainless steel heads are cast hollow to restrict excessive weight, and may be filled with polyurethane to muffle impact noise. Stainless steel is most commonly used to cast heads with a volume of 250 cc or less.

4. Titanium

Titanium is a lightweight metal with a much higher strength-to-weight ratio than standard stainless steel. This allows clubheads to be cast much larger than with steel, supposedly increasing the size of the sweetspot even more. Titanium metal wood heads with volumes exceeding 300 cc are very common today, there are some drivers that exceed 500cc! Titanium can also be forged to make a metal wood clubhead, but this process is significantly more expensive than casting, provides no proven benefits over casting and has a higher probability of breaking at a seam. Some players do report better feel with forged titanium heads, but there are no studies to support this.

5. Other Metals

Maraging steel, copper and tungsten have become popular materials in metal wood heads. Maraging steel is harder than stainless steel or titanium and is frequently used as a face material in metal woods, particularly low profile fairway woods. Tungsten and copper are being added to the sole of many new designs to lower the center of gravity, making it easier to get the ball airborne.

6. Graphite/Composite

The same materials that are used for shafts are also used to make graphite and composite heads. There are two subtle variances in manufacturing techniques. In one case, the graphite prepreg is mixed with an ABS plastic, and is injection molded into a head. In the second version the prepreg is given an epoxy base and the mixture is compression molded. Graphite heads are manufactured with the same weight as the wood and metal heads, but are generally much larger than conventional heads. Again, this supposedly increases the size of the sweetspot. No tests have proven graphite heads more forgiving or longer than other materials.

7. Ceramic

Improvements in material science have made ceramic "wood" heads possible. Ceramic heads are molded or cast, similar to the process for casting a metal head. Some ceramics offer a higher strength to weight ratio than steel or titanium, but are most are more brittle. A common complaint about ceramic heads is that they chip, particularly if the ball is struck at the edge of the clubface. Ceramic heads have a very different feel and sound than metal club heads and some players believe ceramic heads are straighter and longer than metal club heads, although there are no studies to support this conclusion. The quality and durability of ceramic clubheads has improved considerably and newer models are less likely to chip.

8. Oversized

Driver (1 wood/metal) heads with a displacement volume of greater than 250 cc are generally considered to be oversized. Oversized heads with a volume of as much as 600 cc and even more are now available. Contrary to popular opinion, the sweetspot on oversized heads is no larger than the sweetspot on a standard sized head. However, the consensus is that oversized metal heads are more forgiving than standard sized heads, due to the perimeter weighting inherent in the design. This forgiveness produces a longer and straighter flight trajectory on off-center hits.

When using stainless steel or titanium, the walls of the head must be made thinner to keep the overall weight normal (191-205 grams for a 1 wood). This has caused some metal wood faces to crush or dent. For this reason, some manufacturers are bringing mid-sized metal woods to market, which allows the sweetspot to stay large, yet keeps the walls of the head thick enough to prevent denting. Mid-sized heads fall in the range of 250-300 cc. Heads with a volume of 300 cc or greater are often called "jumbo".

9. Notes

The type of wood or metal wood you should use can only be determined by what feels right. While metal and graphite heads can offer forgiveness on off-center shots, some purists argue that you lose the feel you receive from true wood heads. Another consideration should be clubhead size. At some point the increased drag of a very large clubhead will begin to limit swingspeed. What that limit will be depends on the individual golfer and is probably more of a concern for players with a swingspeed >105mph. However, this should be taken into account if you are considering a significantly oversized driver.

III. Irons

1. What is an iron?

Irons were originally made using iron, but are now generally made from steel, titanium or a high tech alloy. Irons are smaller than woods and are considered finesse clubs, meant to be used when accuracy is more important than distance.

2. What does the number on the club mean?

For the most part, the number represents the loft of a club. The lower the number, the longer the shaft and the lower the loft of the club, relative to the other clubs in the set. The lower loft and longer length will result in greater distance, but with a concurrent loss of accuracy. This also equates to lower numbered clubs being more difficult to hit properly.

3. What makes a set of clubs?

A set of golf clubs is restricted to no more than 14 clubs, according to the Rules of Golf. What constitutes this set depends on your preferences. In general, a basic, full set of clubs might include the following clubs:

Irons:
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, PW, SW

Woods:
1, 3, 5, 7

and a putter.

This is just a guideline, the clubs you carry should be determined by the type of course you are playing, the weather conditions and your own playing ability. Also keep in mind that there is no minimum requirement. Many players, especially beginners, carry only 7 to 10 clubs.

4. Investment Casting

Investment casting is a highly accurate and precise method of casting or pouring liquid metal. It is a significant improvement over older casting methods. A master die, usually of aluminum, is milled. Wax is then injected into the die and once it has solidified, the die is removed. The positive wax pattern is then dipped into a ceramic 'slurry', which hardens around the wax to create a negative mold. The wax is then melted away and the empty ceramic negative is filled with molten metal, typically stainless steel or titanium. After the metal has cooled, the ceramic negative is broken away, exposing the newly cast clubhead. The new clubhead is finished and polished and then is ready to be assembled into a golf club. For more information on the investment casting process, please visit these websites:

 http://www.rugergolf.com/process.htm http://www.3dsystems.com/ products/ solidobject/thermojet/TJ_Printer_US_InvCast_4_011.pdf

5. Forged

Forging is a process of pressing or hammering the metal into the desired shape. Forging is very similar to what the village blacksmith used to do except today a large machine called a "press" is used instead of a hammer. Dies are "sunk" or cut, by milling the desired impression into hardened steel. The die is then installed into the press and is used to actually squeeze the "blank" into the desired shape. The manufacturer is then presented with a raw forging, which is a close approximation of the clubhead desired. The clubhead must then be finished by milling, grinding and drilling. Forged clubheads are commonly made from soft carbon steel and may rust if not plated. Some forged wedges are deliberately not plated so as to encourage rusting. The rust reduces reflected glare, but does not affect spin.

6. Blade

A blade is an iron head that has no cavity and typically is forged from soft carbon steel, but there have been some models investment cast in 304 stainless steel. Blades are the iron of choice for many pros and top amateurs because they allow better players to more effectively work the ball. This means that better players typically report that it is easier to draw, fade or otherwise deliberately cause direction changing spin when using blade-type irons. The drawback is that blades have a smaller "sweetspot " and so are less forgiving when mis-hit.

7. Cavity Back/Perimeter Weighted

A cavity back iron, also known as perimeter weighted, has generally been associated with investment casting. The design of the clubhead distributes the weight around the perimeter of the head, supposedly producing a large ' sweetspot '. This makes the off-center shots more forgiving, flying longer and straighter, than an off-center shot with a blade-type iron. The drawback is that it is considered more difficult to reliably work the ball with cavity back irons.

8. Notes

When investment cast heads were first introduced, several companies claimed that the feel of the head was lost. These same companies also claimed it was more difficult to work the ball with the cast heads. Keep in mind that most golfers tend to believe that a blade-type iron (usually forged) produces more feel than the cavity back models (usually investment cast). They also say that it is easier to shape the shot using the blades over the perimeter weighted clubs. Before making a decision, you should try a few blades and cavity back irons and see for yourself.

Also be aware that in the past few years "forged cavity back" club heads have hit the market.  The theory is to provide the feel of a forged club with the forgiveness of cast cavity backs. These are fairly new, but the reports from golfers who have these type of clubs have generally been favorable. However, forged cavity back irons typically cost the same as forged blade irons.

Another recent trend in irons is the use of exotic and multiple metals. The most common of these metals are tungsten and copper, for their high density. These materials are typically used to lower the center of gravity (COG) of the clubhead, promoting a higher ball flight. This is particularly helpful to higher handicap players who have trouble getting the ball airborne.

9. Quick Comparison

Investment cast cavity back

• Peripheral weighting
• More forgiving
• Stainless steel
• Harder to work

Forged blade

• Central weighting
• Better feel
• Carbon steel & chrome
• Easier to work

XII. Purchasing Clubs

1. Things to consider before you buy

Start by sitting down and reading through this document. By honestly judging your abilities, you may be able to decide if you need peripherally weighted or blade-type clubs. The next logical step is deciding on how much money you want to or are willing to spend for new clubs. Keep this number in mind when your shopping for new clubs, if you don't you could wind up spending much more than you planned on.

Once you have an idea of what type of clubs you want and how much you plan on spending, go down to your local golf shop or club and try to hit a few clubs. If you are allowed, try to play a round or two with demo sets. By actually using the clubs in a golf round situation, you may be able to decide if the clubs look, feel, and play the way you would like them to. If you feel uncomfortable with the clubs don't buy them - just because your golfing buddy swears by XYZ, doesn't mean you should too. The main point is that only you can decide what clubs are best for you.

If after doing the above, you still can't decide for yourself, go see a local professional or clubmaker and ask for some help. Either should be more than willing to help you make a well informed decision.

4. How do I build my own clubs?

Many component supply companies offer how-to instructions and beginner kits. Since you are thinking about building your own clubs, order some catalogs. Many catalogs include basic club assembly instructions along with all the components and supplies you will need. Several component companies also publish complete club making manuals and even offer training classes at the factories. A partial list of component companies is appended to this document. While you are waiting for the catalogs to arrive, read some articles regarding club design and assembly. Visit the following sites for more information:

• Clubmaker on-line at http://clubmaker-online.com/
• Dave Tutelman's design notes at http://clubmaker-online.com/resource.html

You'll probably want to start off slowly. Start by building yourself a putter. This will give you a chance to build a club, without having to have too much concern regarding shaft length and flex. If you're happy with your putter, move on to an iron. This will give you a chance to try different shaft lengths and flexes to see which suits you best. Once you feel comfortable, you may want to try your hand at an entire set of irons, or possibly a metal wood.

Don't forget to let us know how your clubs turn out!