VI. Grips

1. Rubber

Rubber grips are made by adding granulated cork, as well as other materials to liquid rubber. The cork serves to displace the rubber, and is the reason many grips are called composition grips. It also makes the overall weight of the grip lighter. The rubber/cork blend is checked to assure the proper viscosity, and is then molded in a high pressure molding machine. After molding, the grips are sanded and painted. Some of the features of rubber grips are easy installation, reminder ribs for hand placement, and they are less expensive. Rubber is the most common grip material used today.

2. Leather

Some senior players use leather, while most younger players use various rubber molded grips. The reason has very little to do with the quality or playability of the grip, but simply a difference in what each generation has been accustomed to. One of the features of leather grips (generally made of cowhide or calfskin) is that they have a nice soft, pliable, tacky feel. A few of the drawbacks are its difficulty to install, and its price. Leather is not very common today.

3. Cord/Half-Cord

Most of the more popular rubber models come in an optional cord grip, in which strands of fabric thread are embedded in the rubber grip. This makes for a better non-slip contact with hand or glove, especially when wet with rain or sweat. However, it does wear out gloves faster than non-cord grips.

Many of the cord models also come as half-cord, in which the top of the grip (where your thumbs are) is smooth rubber and the bottom (where your fingers wrap around the grip) is corded.

4. Oversized/Undersized

Grips come in a standard size, but can be padded to a larger diameter with tape on the shaft under the grip. Each layer of masking tape adds approximately 1/64th of an inch to the diameter of the grip. This may not seem like a lot, but it makes a significant difference in how the grip feels and can impact your swing. It is also possible to get larger and smaller diameter grips.

5. Quick Comparison

Rubber Grips

• Slip-on design
• Easy to install
• Less expensive
• Rough when corded

Leather Grips

• Usually wrapped spiral design
• Harder to install
• More expensive
• Natural soft, tacky feel

Oversized

• For larger hands
• Minimize arthritis pain
• Decreases hand action, promoting a slice

Undersized

• For smaller hands (many women)
• Increases hand action, promoting a hook

6. Notes

The type of grips a person uses will be based on feel. Some people like the natural soft feel of the leather grips, while others refuse to use anything but corded composite grips. Try going to a local golf shop and seeing which grips feel right.

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.

V. Shafts

It is generally agreed that the shaft is the single most important part of the golf club. Shaft selection involves many variables including material, length, torque, kickpoint (bendpoint) and most importantly, flex. Having properly fitted shafts in your clubs is probably the best thing you can do with regard to equipment for improving your game.

1. Steel

Steel shafts are generally made from carbon steel or stainless steel. For the most part, the manufacturing processes between the two are similar. A steel strip is rolled into a tube and is drawn over a mandrel until the diameter and wall thickness are reduced to their exact specifications. At this point the step pattern is formed on the shaft. Then the walls are made thinner at the grip and thicker at the tip to give the shaft its flex characteristics. Then it is hardened, tempered, straightened and stress relieved. The final step is to polish and chrome plate the shaft. One of the best features of the steel shaft is the ability to have the same feel throughout the entire set. This means that the shaft stiffness of the 3 iron will feel the same as the 9 iron, if they are properly assembled. Other features are its durability and price. Steel is the preferred material for the majority of the players on the US and European PGA Tours.

2. Graphite

Graphite shafts are made from a graphite tape or sheets. The material, which has an epoxy binder, is wrapped around a steel mandrel. The wrapped shaft is then temperature cured and the mandrel removed. The raw shaft is then sanded and cut to proper length, at which point it receives a clear or colored paint coating. Its most notable feature is its lightweight. It also helps dampen the vibration caused by clubhead impact with the ground. A few of the drawbacks are the feel of the shaft (some people complain that a stiff graphite shaft does not feel like a stiff steel shaft); the stiffness may not be consistent throughout a set, and its price tag. A newer manufacturing process called "filament winding" can produce a set with greater consistency, but at a higher price. Graphite has gained significant acceptance on the US LPGA Tour and the US Senior PGA Tour.

3. Titanium/Aluminum

I have very little information regarding the titanium and aluminum shafts and their respective manufacturing processes. There are not many titanium or aluminum shafts on the market and to my knowledge, none are in use on any professional tour.

4. Flex

The stiffness, flex, or deflection of a shaft defines the bending characteristics of the tube, when a load is applied to the shaft. The most common shaft flexes are designated as X (extra-stiff), S (stiff), R (regular), A (man's flexible), or L (ladies'). Typically, a faster swing speed will benefit from increased accuracy with a stiffer shaft. A slower swing speed will benefit from increased distance with a more flexible shaft. Flex is probably the single most important factor in the feel of a shaft.

5. Frequency/Slope

Some manufacturers rate the stiffness of their shafts according to the Brunswick Slope. This measurement assigns a stiffness rating to a shaft according its frequency or how fast it vibrates and is also dependent on club length. This frequency is expressed in "cycles per minute" or CPM. Below is a comparison of CPM, slope and standard flex for a 38 inch club (typical men's 5 iron).

CPM	SLOPE	FLEX
288	4.5	L
293	5.0	A
298	5.5	R
303	6.0	S
308	6.5	X

6. Torque

Generally torque is a rating applied to a graphite shaft. It specifies the twisting characteristics of the shaft. The normal torque rating of a steel shaft for woods is about 2.5 degrees and 1.7 degrees for the irons. The general range of torque ratings found on graphite shafts are from 3.5 to 5.5 degrees, although it is possible to get shafts with lower or higher ratings. The higher the torque rating, the more the shaft twists for a given twisting force. The torque rating also seems to be tied to the stiffness of a shaft, the lower the torque rating, the stiffer the shaft. There is no accepted industry standard for measuring torque.

7. Kickpoint

The kickpoint (a.k.a. bendpoint or flexpoint) defines where the shaft will bend. Kickpoint affects the trajectory of the shot, the higher the kickpoint, the lower the trajectory. (A high kickpoint is closer to the grip end of the shaft; a low kickpoint is closer to the head end of the shaft.) The effect in trajectory is small but measurable. For someone that generally hits the ball with a high shot trajectory, a high kickpoint is desirable in a shaft. For someone with a low shot trajectory, a low kickpoint helps get the ball airborne and on a higher flight path. The kickpoint also affects the feel of the shaft. A golfer who can feel the difference finds the high bend point makes the shaft feel like "one piece", while with the low bend point, the shaft feels as though the tip whips the clubhead through the ball. There is no accepted industry standard for measuring kickpoint.

8. Spines

A shaft is considered to have a spine when its flex and torque characteristics vary with its orientation. Since all shafts, regardless of material or manufacturing process, have some variation, all shafts are considered to have spines. Until very recently, the USGA rules for shafts specifically required shafts to have the same characteristics, regardless of orientation. However, variations are an inevitable outcome of the manufacturing processes and the USGA has finally acknowledged this fact. New guidelines from the USGA allow clubmakers to align shafts so that they are consistent from one club to the next within a set.

There have been some studies that indicate improved shot consistency when shafts are aligned throughout a set. Some professional players have been aligning their shafts for many years and it is now becoming more common in the mass market. For an additional fee, some shaft vendors and manufacturers will now sell shafts with the spines marked. There are also devices available to custom clubmakers which will allow them to determine spine orientation.

9.  Notes

Never base your shaft selection on specifications, always try to demo the shafts you are considering. This is because there are no industry standards for measuring flex, kickpoint or torque. One company's low torque extra stiff shaft may be another company's mid torque regular flex shaft. Choosing the material, flex, and kickpoint of a shaft will depend entirely on what feels right when you swing the club. Someone with a high swing speed may choose a steel shaft with a flex rating of X and a low kickpoint, while someone with the same swing speed may choose a graphite shaft with a flex rating of R and a high kickpoint. The general consensus is see your local professional and ask what he/she recommends. Make your decision from there.

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.

IV. Woods/Metals

Historically the "wood" was made of wood (hence the name), but they now come in a variety materials from wood to stainless steel to titanium to graphite and several other materials. They are also generally bigger, in terms of size and volume, than other clubs. Woods are typically long distance clubs meant to be used when distance is more important than accuracy. A driver is a 1 wood and typically has somewhere between 6 and 12 degrees of loft (0 degrees of loft would be perpendicular to the ground). The hosel of a wood is also typically somewhat smaller than the hosel of an iron, .335" instead of .370".

1. Wood "woods"

There are two types of wood used, persimmon and maple. Solid heads are usually persimmon. Laminated (plywood) heads are usually maple. Persimmon heads are made by using a sophisticated turning machine, which mills the material into the desired shape. The process is much like making a duplicate key for a lock. The second, and most commonly used wood, is laminated maple. Generally, 1/16 inch veneers of maple are laminated together into a block, much like plywood. Then the veneers are heated and pressurized, and finally turned like the persimmon heads.

While some golfers indicate that persimmon heads have a more solid feel at impact, studies do not support this. Other golfers prefer the laminated maple, reasoning that they last longer.

2. Metal "woods"

Metal woods have become the standard over the last 10 years. There are only a few professional players using persimmon or maple fairway woods and all of the pros use metal drivers now. Metal woods have a number of advantages over wood. Metal woods generally last longer and are less expensive than persimmon or maple woods. Metal woods can be perimeter weighted. Metal woods can be cast from an almost endless list of alloys, depending on the manufacturer's design. Stainless steel and titanium are the most common choices for metal woods.

3. Stainless Steel

Stainless steel heads of many different alloys are available, the most common being 17-4 and 15-5. Stainless steel heads are cast hollow to restrict excessive weight, and may be filled with polyurethane to muffle impact noise. Stainless steel is most commonly used to cast heads with a volume of 250 cc or less.

4. Titanium

Titanium is a lightweight metal with a much higher strength-to-weight ratio than standard stainless steel. This allows clubheads to be cast much larger than with steel, supposedly increasing the size of the sweetspot even more. Titanium metal wood heads with volumes exceeding 300 cc are very common today, there are some drivers that exceed 500cc! Titanium can also be forged to make a metal wood clubhead, but this process is significantly more expensive than casting, provides no proven benefits over casting and has a higher probability of breaking at a seam. Some players do report better feel with forged titanium heads, but there are no studies to support this.

5. Other Metals

Maraging steel, copper and tungsten have become popular materials in metal wood heads. Maraging steel is harder than stainless steel or titanium and is frequently used as a face material in metal woods, particularly low profile fairway woods. Tungsten and copper are being added to the sole of many new designs to lower the center of gravity, making it easier to get the ball airborne.

6. Graphite/Composite

The same materials that are used for shafts are also used to make graphite and composite heads. There are two subtle variances in manufacturing techniques. In one case, the graphite prepreg is mixed with an ABS plastic, and is injection molded into a head. In the second version the prepreg is given an epoxy base and the mixture is compression molded. Graphite heads are manufactured with the same weight as the wood and metal heads, but are generally much larger than conventional heads. Again, this supposedly increases the size of the sweetspot. No tests have proven graphite heads more forgiving or longer than other materials.

7. Ceramic

Improvements in material science have made ceramic "wood" heads possible. Ceramic heads are molded or cast, similar to the process for casting a metal head. Some ceramics offer a higher strength to weight ratio than steel or titanium, but are most are more brittle. A common complaint about ceramic heads is that they chip, particularly if the ball is struck at the edge of the clubface. Ceramic heads have a very different feel and sound than metal club heads and some players believe ceramic heads are straighter and longer than metal club heads, although there are no studies to support this conclusion. The quality and durability of ceramic clubheads has improved considerably and newer models are less likely to chip.

8. Oversized

Driver (1 wood/metal) heads with a displacement volume of greater than 250 cc are generally considered to be oversized. Oversized heads with a volume of as much as 600 cc and even more are now available. Contrary to popular opinion, the sweetspot on oversized heads is no larger than the sweetspot on a standard sized head. However, the consensus is that oversized metal heads are more forgiving than standard sized heads, due to the perimeter weighting inherent in the design. This forgiveness produces a longer and straighter flight trajectory on off-center hits.

When using stainless steel or titanium, the walls of the head must be made thinner to keep the overall weight normal (191-205 grams for a 1 wood). This has caused some metal wood faces to crush or dent. For this reason, some manufacturers are bringing mid-sized metal woods to market, which allows the sweetspot to stay large, yet keeps the walls of the head thick enough to prevent denting. Mid-sized heads fall in the range of 250-300 cc. Heads with a volume of 300 cc or greater are often called "jumbo".

9. Notes

The type of wood or metal wood you should use can only be determined by what feels right. While metal and graphite heads can offer forgiveness on off-center shots, some purists argue that you lose the feel you receive from true wood heads. Another consideration should be clubhead size. At some point the increased drag of a very large clubhead will begin to limit swingspeed. What that limit will be depends on the individual golfer and is probably more of a concern for players with a swingspeed >105mph. However, this should be taken into account if you are considering a significantly oversized driver.

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.

III. Irons

1. What is an iron?

Irons were originally made using iron, but are now generally made from steel, titanium or a high tech alloy. Irons are smaller than woods and are considered finesse clubs, meant to be used when accuracy is more important than distance.

2. What does the number on the club mean?

For the most part, the number represents the loft of a club. The lower the number, the longer the shaft and the lower the loft of the club, relative to the other clubs in the set. The lower loft and longer length will result in greater distance, but with a concurrent loss of accuracy. This also equates to lower numbered clubs being more difficult to hit properly.

3. What makes a set of clubs?

A set of golf clubs is restricted to no more than 14 clubs, according to the Rules of Golf. What constitutes this set depends on your preferences. In general, a basic, full set of clubs might include the following clubs:

Irons:
3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, PW, SW

Woods:
1, 3, 5, 7

and a putter.

This is just a guideline, the clubs you carry should be determined by the type of course you are playing, the weather conditions and your own playing ability. Also keep in mind that there is no minimum requirement. Many players, especially beginners, carry only 7 to 10 clubs.

4. Investment Casting

Investment casting is a highly accurate and precise method of casting or pouring liquid metal. It is a significant improvement over older casting methods. A master die, usually of aluminum, is milled. Wax is then injected into the die and once it has solidified, the die is removed. The positive wax pattern is then dipped into a ceramic 'slurry', which hardens around the wax to create a negative mold. The wax is then melted away and the empty ceramic negative is filled with molten metal, typically stainless steel or titanium. After the metal has cooled, the ceramic negative is broken away, exposing the newly cast clubhead. The new clubhead is finished and polished and then is ready to be assembled into a golf club. For more information on the investment casting process, please visit these websites:

 http://www.rugergolf.com/process.htm http://www.3dsystems.com/ products/ solidobject/thermojet/TJ_Printer_US_InvCast_4_011.pdf

5. Forged

Forging is a process of pressing or hammering the metal into the desired shape. Forging is very similar to what the village blacksmith used to do except today a large machine called a "press" is used instead of a hammer. Dies are "sunk" or cut, by milling the desired impression into hardened steel. The die is then installed into the press and is used to actually squeeze the "blank" into the desired shape. The manufacturer is then presented with a raw forging, which is a close approximation of the clubhead desired. The clubhead must then be finished by milling, grinding and drilling. Forged clubheads are commonly made from soft carbon steel and may rust if not plated. Some forged wedges are deliberately not plated so as to encourage rusting. The rust reduces reflected glare, but does not affect spin.

6. Blade

A blade is an iron head that has no cavity and typically is forged from soft carbon steel, but there have been some models investment cast in 304 stainless steel. Blades are the iron of choice for many pros and top amateurs because they allow better players to more effectively work the ball. This means that better players typically report that it is easier to draw, fade or otherwise deliberately cause direction changing spin when using blade-type irons. The drawback is that blades have a smaller "sweetspot " and so are less forgiving when mis-hit.

7. Cavity Back/Perimeter Weighted

A cavity back iron, also known as perimeter weighted, has generally been associated with investment casting. The design of the clubhead distributes the weight around the perimeter of the head, supposedly producing a large ' sweetspot '. This makes the off-center shots more forgiving, flying longer and straighter, than an off-center shot with a blade-type iron. The drawback is that it is considered more difficult to reliably work the ball with cavity back irons.

8. Notes

When investment cast heads were first introduced, several companies claimed that the feel of the head was lost. These same companies also claimed it was more difficult to work the ball with the cast heads. Keep in mind that most golfers tend to believe that a blade-type iron (usually forged) produces more feel than the cavity back models (usually investment cast). They also say that it is easier to shape the shot using the blades over the perimeter weighted clubs. Before making a decision, you should try a few blades and cavity back irons and see for yourself.

Also be aware that in the past few years "forged cavity back" club heads have hit the market.  The theory is to provide the feel of a forged club with the forgiveness of cast cavity backs. These are fairly new, but the reports from golfers who have these type of clubs have generally been favorable. However, forged cavity back irons typically cost the same as forged blade irons.

Another recent trend in irons is the use of exotic and multiple metals. The most common of these metals are tungsten and copper, for their high density. These materials are typically used to lower the center of gravity (COG) of the clubhead, promoting a higher ball flight. This is particularly helpful to higher handicap players who have trouble getting the ball airborne.

9. Quick Comparison

Investment cast cavity back

• Peripheral weighting
• More forgiving
• Stainless steel
• Harder to work

Forged blade

• Central weighting
• Better feel
• Carbon steel & chrome
• Easier to work

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.

XII. Purchasing Clubs

1. Things to consider before you buy

Start by sitting down and reading through this document. By honestly judging your abilities, you may be able to decide if you need peripherally weighted or blade-type clubs. The next logical step is deciding on how much money you want to or are willing to spend for new clubs. Keep this number in mind when your shopping for new clubs, if you don't you could wind up spending much more than you planned on.

Once you have an idea of what type of clubs you want and how much you plan on spending, go down to your local golf shop or club and try to hit a few clubs. If you are allowed, try to play a round or two with demo sets. By actually using the clubs in a golf round situation, you may be able to decide if the clubs look, feel, and play the way you would like them to. If you feel uncomfortable with the clubs don't buy them - just because your golfing buddy swears by XYZ, doesn't mean you should too. The main point is that only you can decide what clubs are best for you.

If after doing the above, you still can't decide for yourself, go see a local professional or clubmaker and ask for some help. Either should be more than willing to help you make a well informed decision.

4. How do I build my own clubs?

Many component supply companies offer how-to instructions and beginner kits. Since you are thinking about building your own clubs, order some catalogs. Many catalogs include basic club assembly instructions along with all the components and supplies you will need. Several component companies also publish complete club making manuals and even offer training classes at the factories. A partial list of component companies is appended to this document. While you are waiting for the catalogs to arrive, read some articles regarding club design and assembly. Visit the following sites for more information:

• Clubmaker on-line at http://clubmaker-online.com/
• Dave Tutelman's design notes at http://clubmaker-online.com/resource.html

You'll probably want to start off slowly. Start by building yourself a putter. This will give you a chance to build a club, without having to have too much concern regarding shaft length and flex. If you're happy with your putter, move on to an iron. This will give you a chance to try different shaft lengths and flexes to see which suits you best. Once you feel comfortable, you may want to try your hand at an entire set of irons, or possibly a metal wood.

Don't forget to let us know how your clubs turn out!

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.

II. On-Course Safety and Etiquette

1. Safety

Golf is a dangerous sport and if you don't believe me, consider this: Literally millions of people all over the world with absolutely no training whatsoever routinely step onto golf courses every day and attempt to propel a very hard little ball tremendous distances in the fewest number of strokes possible with implements which few people consider to be adequate for the task. Golf balls themselves are designed to travel at speeds exceeding 150 miles per hour, but rarely do so in a straight line.  Players routinely lose sight of their golf balls after striking them and are often totally oblivious as to the direction the ball is traveling and the people who may happen to be standing in the area(s) where the ball could return to earth. People have been killed by golf balls and injuries are not uncommon. Given the lack of training and relative inexperience of the vast majority of golfers, particularly in the USA, it is remarkable that so few deaths, injuries and damages are reported every year.

While it is impossible to eliminate all of the dangers and risks on a golf course, there are some things that all golfers can do that will make the golf course a safer place for everyone. Most of these suggestions are common sense and hopefully experienced players are teaching them to the newcomers they play with. This is not intended to be a comprehensive listing; that would be impossible. But if you use these suggestions as a starting point and apply a reasonable degree of intelligence, you should be relatively safe from and to others on the golf course. If you are a newcomer to golf, following these suggestions will earn you some respect from more experienced playing partners.

Always be aware of the people around you
This doesn't just mean the members of your group, but also the group in front of you, the group behind you and the groups on adjoining holes. This is your best protection against hitting someone or being hit by someone else. When playing along the perimeter of the course also be aware of the people off the course, particularly if they are not separated from the course by a high fence or net.

FORE!
The all purpose warning in golf is the word "FORE" yelled as loudly as possible. This warns all players within earshot that a golf ball has strayed from its intended target line and may pose a danger to other players. You should yell "FORE" whenever you see that your ball is traveling towards another group of people, if you lose sight of your ball or if you cannot see where your ball will land, such as the other side of a hill. Yelling "FORE" is the only warning that you can give other people on the golf course if you mis-hit your ball. In some jurisdictions you may be held liable for injuries caused by your errant shot if you did not attempt to warn the victim(s) by yelling "FORE". Even if you think your ball will not go far enough to hit anyone you should still yell if it is going to be anywhere close. Also keep an eye on your playing partner's shots. Often playing partners have a better view of where a ball is going than the player who struck the shot, particularly if it was towards the sun. A good rule of thumb: When in doubt, shout!

Duck and cover
Having everyone yell "FORE" does no good if the people for whom the warning is intended don't respond. It is utterly amazing how many people hear a warning shout and then stand up to look for the ball! This is a good way to become a nominee for a Darwin Award. When you hear a "FORE" warning shout the recommended procedure is to immediately crouch or bend over at the waist and cross your arms over your head to protect it. Do this immediately because the golf ball will not be far behind the warning shout. Maintain your protective position for 5 seconds or longer or until you see/hear the ball land. It is better to be safe than dead or injured.

Beware of practice swings
This is particularly true on the teeing ground. Never assume that other players know where you are; always stay out of range of a practice swing. Before moving forward to take your turn to tee off, ensure that the previous player is not going to swing his club again. Never take a swing without looking around your immediate area to confirm that there isn't anyone in range of your club.

Don't hit into the group ahead
While this sounds so simple and logical, it happens all the time, sometimes with deadly results. The usual cause is impatience with a slow pace of play or failure to be aware of where other players are on the course. Occasionally a player will hit an exceptional shot that is much longer than their normal distance, but this is fairly rare. But regardless of the cause, warn the group ahead by shouting "FORE".

Drive carefully
I am talking about your golf cart, not your tee shot. Don't drive golf carts across slippery or wet slopes, carts overturn easily. Don't drive golf carts along the edges of drop-offs, cliffs, bunkers or water hazards. Make sure the brakes work properly before leaving the clubhouse area. Don't drive a golf cart if you are intoxicated. Golf carts are not toys, they weigh hundreds of pounds and can easily kill someone if you run over or hit them.

On a related note, be aware that improperly operated golf carts are possibly the single biggest cause of damage to the course when the ground is soft or wet. Golf carts can easily gouge deep ruts in soft turf, especially in low areas where water has collected. Please, for everyone's sake, do not drive golf carts into areas where the ground looks soft or wet. Drive around the area or walk to your ball. If conditions are poor, keep the cart on the cartpath.

When golf carts are allowed in the fairways always use the "90 Degree Rule". What this means is to drive on the cartpath until you are even with your ball and the drive straight across the fairway at a 90* angle. After you have hit your shot, continue straight across the fairway and turn around in the rough. Whenever possible, avoid maneuvering the cart in the fairway.

Beware of wildlife
Golf courses have features which many wild animals find attractive and many rural and suburban golf courses are built adjacent to uncultivated land. Since animals don't read maps, they frequently cross over from their wild areas onto the golf course. Most of the time this is actually a pleasant occurrence, such as seeing a family of deer or wild turkeys on the course in the early morning or evening. But sometimes it is a rattlesnake hunting field mice in the rough or a snapping turtle who has made his home in the lake where you just hit that brand new ball. In some parts of the world there can be danger from alligators, big cats, poisonous snakes and insects. Know the dangers associated with the wildlife native to the area where you are playing.

3. Avoid Slow Play

Unfortunately, at many courses there is a significant problem with slow play. On weekends and holidays 4, 5 and even 6 hour rounds are not uncommon. This is especially true in areas where there are a small number of golf courses relative to the population, such as the San Francisco Bay Area. Due to this problem of slow play, many courses have instituted a policy known as "Ready Golf". This essentially means exactly what it says, as soon as you are ready to play your next shot, do so. Of course this does not mean that you should compromise safety or interfere with other players. It does mean that you should limit the number of practice strokes you take and that you should be prepared to play your shot as soon as it is safe to do so. For example, the first person to the next tee box should not wait for whomever has the honor, but instead should tee off immediately, presuming the fairway is clear. On the putting green, after hitting your first putt, if you only have a tap-in remaining, finish putting instead of marking and lifting your ball, as long as you do not interfere with another player. When you have finished playing the hole do not write your scores on the scorecard until you reach the next tee.

When playing from a cart, drop one player off at his/her ball with several clubs and if it is safe, drive the cart to the second player's ball. This way, the two players sharing the cart can both prepare for their shots at the same time. If you are not allowed to take the cart off the path, drive the cart until it is roughly even with your ball and take several clubs (maybe the one you think you will need and one above and one below) with you to your ball. If you really have no idea what club you will need, pull your bag off the cart and take the whole thing with you to your ball.

Perhaps the most critical factor in avoiding slow play is maintaining your position on the golf course. In order to maintain the pace of play, your group must keep up with group ahead. Your proper position on the golf course is directly behind the preceding group, not directly ahead of the following group. This is true regardless of the pace of play being set by the preceding group. This means that if the group in front of you is on a pace for a 3 1/2 hour round, then you should also be on a pace for a 3 1/2 hour round. Early morning players often find themselves in this situation. Always remember that if you are the third group of the day and fall behind, it is impossible for the time to be made up. Every group for the rest of the day will have a slow round because you did not maintain your position. If for any reason you are not able to maintain the pace of play you must allow the faster group(s) behind you to play through.

4. Serious Offenses

If attending a pro tournament, never shout "U DA MAN!" after a drive or "IN DA HOLE!" after a putt. If you do and are publicly identified as such, your RSG posting privileges will be revoked for a period of not less than 2 years per incident. :-)

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This FAQ is Copyright 1999-2002 by Daniel J. Driscoll, all rights reserved. Product and company names used in this document may be trademarked or copyrighted by the respective owners. This document may be replicated in whole or in part, without alteration. All replications must include this copyright notice.